What an experience..

It’s quite surreal to think that I went to India over the summer, now, looking back on it. I say this, because India was not originally on my list of top destinations to go to right away. Furthermore the organisation of the trip happened so quickly. However I am so incredible glad that I applied and was offered this opportunity.

I have never been narrow-minded in terms of culture and different countries’ perspectives and differences compared to western life in the UK, as being Iranian has meant that I have visited my family in Iran every year. Therefore, I have been exposed to different cultural aspects, such as lack of democracy, poverty and differences in dress code and appropriate behaviour. It was both interesting and eye-opening to see India in its raw and real state; the slums, the chaotic streets, the street markets. I feel very blessed and lucky to have visited India with the University of Delhi, as the students taught us about their culture and explained certain rules and traditions. We all got on so well and have stayed in contact since our visit to India which proves the sustainable connections which were an outcome of the trip.

Being there did make me appreciate my culture and way of life, particularly the quality of it. That does not mean to say that I believe India has an unsatisfactory lifestyle, simply that the trip made me appreciate the fact that women in western cultures get more freedom and that there are healthcare systems and welfare charities which attempt to reduce homelessness, to the extent that it is not really classified as poverty. Moreover, how lucky we are to have clean running water and a better sense of personal hygiene was reaffirmed in my mind; how you only worry about food poisoning if your meat was under-cooked, compared to the constant anxiety of the cleanliness of the water in India. There were many aspects which I find are better in western culture, however there were others that I wish were more present. For example, dancing. Indian people, particularly the women, are so free and sensual with their dance moves. They shake their bodies and move them to the music with such rhythm and passion, unlike the robotic and tamer way women dance in western countries. I definitely had more fun ‘bhangra’ dancing in the streets of India than I normally have dancing to Rihanna in a London club.

Overall, I learnt so much from this trip. My eyes were widened and my horizons broadened, regarding a vastly different culture and way of life and I was introduced to the most lovely and kind people, with whom I have maintained relationships with. The food was incredible and the markets were both exciting and fascinating. Although there were many rules laid out, during the trip, that were slightly annoying and pedantic, it simply shows the difference in safety and security in different countries. I sincerely hope that this trip is run again next summer and that King’s College London are once again invited to partake in it. I would love to revisit India; although I visited Delhi, Agra and traveled across the Punjab, there is still so much to see and experience. I would be honoured to be given such a chance again.

Saturday 7th September: Back to Delhi and off to Agra!

When we arrived back at Delhi Safdarjung, we greeted by an entourage, similar to that that sent us off almost ten days ago. There was a band playing again and chalk was thrown over us in celebration. The Gyanodaya trips are highly regarded in India by the government for cultural, industrial and educative awareness, thus it was considered a great thing that students from Edinburgh University and King’s College London were taking part in it as well.

Arriving back to quite a welcome in Delhi ^^

 

Chalk was thrown over us… ^^                          My Indian husband 😉 ^^

 

I have never been more knackered as I was when we arrived back at our guesthouse in New Delhi. But there was only time for a quick shower and change of clothes….AS WE WERE OFF TO AGRA! I was so unbelievably excited, as I thought I was not going to be able to visit the Taj Mahal. As much as I hope to visit India once more, I do not know when that will be and I would have been so disappointed to have missed the Taj. Our King’s representative, Adam, organised a taxi to take a group of us and although I loved the cultural exchange of the train journey and trip around the Punjab, it was also fun to have a road trip, just us.

Once we arrived, we were bombarded by street-sellers offering us their trinkets, postcards and souvenirs. It was so unfortunate that we had to dismiss them, as I felt horrible denying them help for their livelihoods. We found a tour guide who got us our tickets and then educated us about the Taj. He told us how the Taj Mahal (translated as the Crown Palace) was built by the Mughal Emperor for the love of his life, his Persian wife, Mumtaz. The tour guide became quite intrigued when I told him that I was Persian and kept pointing out the Persian aspects of the architecture and how the Taj is considered ‘the jewel of Muslim art in India’. It was fascinating to hear the history and learn about the incredible sights we were seeing.

 

Everyone must visit the Taj. I have never seen a building that looks as breathtakingly beautiful and magnificent in real life, as it does in a photo. The marble was pristine and the architecture of the building was overwhelming. I was a complete tourist and paid to have a photographer take photos of me jumping in front of the Taj Mahal and also of me ‘touching’ the top of the building. Our group attracted many Indian citizens, once again, as we were asked on numerous occasions to be in photos with people. One adorable toddler put her hands in mine as we both had henna designs on our palms, whilst others handed us their children so we could have photos together. It is an interesting but lovely experience.

The trip to the Taj Mahal was the icing on the cake of a fantastic trip. I am ecstatic that I applied for this cultural enriching experience and incredibly happy that I made sustainable contacts with some of the Delhi students, as well as students from Edinburgh and King’s. I was truly sad to be leaving the next day. Although it was time to go home and I missed being able to eat whatever I wanted and to take off my cardigan if I was feeling hot, I would genuinely miss India and the people I was lucky enough to meet there. I feel absolutely blessed to have been given this opportunity and to have experienced India the way I did.

Friday 6th September: Chandigarh #3

Today was our last day in Chandigarh but there was still a fully-packed schedule to ensure that we experienced every last ounce of culture the Punjab had to offer. We started off by travelling to the Pinjore Gardens after breakfast, where I got to ride a camel! I had really wanted to ride an elephant in India but a camel was close enough. It was far more uncomfortable than I thought but a real experience. We then flew kites with the Delhi students which was surprisingly enjoyable; I’ve never been a kite fan, myself, but it was a lovely activity to participate in with the others. It also involved teamwork (the kites were huge) so that resulted in making more friends.

 

We then proceeded to the Rock and Rose Gardens. I personally enjoyed the Rock Garden far more, as it was a fascinating place and the waterfalls and greenery were beautiful. We were visiting at the wrong time of year to fully appreciate the beauty of the Rose Garden, as the roses were not in full bloom in September. It is amazing to think that this 12-acre complex was once illegal and had to be hidden from government officials. We took so many photographs in the Rock Garden as the scenery was so idyllic. It was fun to pose with the Delhi students; we had become so close to them during the trip and they had most definitely become quite attached.

 

I did feel saddened, seeing the numerous stray dogs. You do not see many stray dogs in London to begin with, but it was harder in India, as we were not even allowed to go near them, just in case we were bitten. The dogs we saw were either the tiniest and most adorable puppies who clearly needed love and attention or they were starving skeletal animals with flesh wounds who just needed help. It was upsetting seeing the poverty in the animals, as you would feel sorry for them and think of all of the people begging on the street. It was extremely difficult to deny begging children money, especially as the currency worked in our favour, but there were many rumours implying that Indian mafia employed children to beg on the streets for money, to then pass on the money. It was sadly true, as sometimes we offered the children food and they just walked away. It was hard seeing the lifestyle that so many people in India were restricted to. It made me feel extremely grateful, humbled and lucky for what I have at home.

That night, as I gathered my things to go to bed on the train, for the last time, I felt absolutely exhausted but culturally enriched and my horizons broadened. This last day in Chandigarh furthered my desire to travel to more and more new destinations and experience the culture of various countries.

Thursday 5th September: Chandigarh #2

About three-quarters into our trip, we were no stranger to early mornings, thus we were not surprised when we learned that we had to wake up early to visit the University of Chandigarh that morning, where a presentation regarding and celebrating the Gyanodaya III trip was to be held. I was so sleepy but quickly brushed it off as our coach suddenly turned into a moving dance floor. Health and safety out the window, we started dancing on our coach, moving up and down, pulling up those who were trying to sleep. It was a weird but hilarious experience. I doubt I will partake in that particular activity again, due to obvious regulations in most countries, regarding seatbelts in vehicles. Only in India. I felt part of the community; the teachers were giving me their bindis, I had henna on my hand and we were all laughing, talking and dancing together.

The presentation turned out to be incredible. All of the directors involved were thanked for their efforts in orchestrating the trip and then the celebratory talent show began. Two of my closer Indian friends, Akanksha and Bhawna, were dancing in it and I had had to lend them my make up for it. This is an example of the closeness that was achieved during such a short space of time. So many of the Delhi students impressed us with their dancing skills and then a student from Edinburgh performed a Scottish jig, before inviting all of the western students to dance the Macarena. The Indian students were mindblown. It was so funny seeing such an infamous dance impress them. It was a really fun collective event, where it became obvious that bonds had been created between the western and Delhi students.

 

Me with my bindi ^^                                           Akanksha dancing ^^

We participated in another crazy coach journey back to the hotel for lunch, before travelling to a famous shopping and market district in Chandigarh. This was what most of the western students had been waiting for, as we had heard about the incredible bargains that could be made in India. I bought presents for my parents, my sister and my friends, as well as several trinkets for myself. I bought so much and only spent the equivalent of £20. It was the new Primark! I had the most adorable friend I made during that trip by my side, helping me haggle down the prices. Juhi was the sweetest person ever to me on that trip. She would warn me what to eat and what not to eat of the street food and steer me away from things I wanted to buy that were deemed too expensive. It was a shock how the Indian students would regard a pashmina, being sold for the equivalent of £6 as being too expensive, when pashminas in the UK cost £40 minimum. The quality of life and the value of money was a vast difference.

 

Me and my beautiful friend, Juhi ^^                 Market in Chandigarh ^^

Wednesday 4th September: Chandigarh #1

Our train pulled into Chandigarh station at its usual early hour and we were all awoken abruptly. Exhausted, we clambered out of our beds and got ready to go to our hotels. We were hoping to sleep but were swayed by the suggestion to go shopping at the markets. Everyone shook off their sleep as we arrived at our hotels. This particular hotel was heaven. The last had a bed and a shower and we were in love. This one had a games room, a swimming pool, a rainforest shower, televisions in rooms and king-size beds. Another example of disorganization in Asian culture: we were told we were going to a market, so despite being tired, we all showered and got ready. We were then told that we weren’t going to a market and that we could rest…only by this point, we had only an hour. This disorganisation was infuriating for the entire duration of the trip, but it was just another thing that we had to get used to, being in India.

Our plan for that day was to see a few gurdwaras (place of worship for Sikhs, as Chandigarh was populated by more Sikhs, unlike Delhi, which hosted more Hindus). We visited a museum dedicated to Guru Nanak and the journey of the Sikh religion, which I found highly interesting as I could relate to much of the information, having studied the core religions in Religious Studies at GCSE. I love how colourful and exciting the Hindu and Sikh religions come across to be.

The views from the top of the gurdwaras were breathtaking and the actual temples, themselves, were beautiful too. Made of white stone and marble with gold; we were in awe of these buildings. Hindu and Sikh cultures are a lot more respectful and the people belonging to that religion appear to have a lot more respect for each other (in general, from what I saw).

 

 

Incredible sights: people standing in a moving truck (similar to in Iran) and a woman balancing many bricks on her head! ^^

We returned back to our luxurious hotels, drained of energy from the day. Meal times were always great as we got to chat to the Delhi students and then continue these conversations as we went up to our rooms. It was like a large sleepover, across hotel floors. For example, that evening, the girls had bought us henna, as I had been saying I wanted to get it on my hand, and they applied it for us in a beautiful design. This trip was a special experience. I think it is a particularly vital one for those who are slightly narrow-minded in terms of culture.

Tuesday 3rd September: Haveli, Ludhiana

This morning marked another point of the trip where the western students were treated to a delightful shock of Indian ways. We were told to be up, packed and ready downstairs for 6am but we overslept and jumped out of our beds as we realised this. However mid-rush, we heard a knock on the door, only to find out that we now had to be downstairs, ready for 8am. We groaned as we realised we could have had more sleep. We arrived downstairs, fully packed but had to wait another 2 hours as the Delhi teachers and students gradually made their way into the breakfast hall, we ate and eventually piled onto the coaches.

It was sad as we left Amritsar, as the two girls from King’s with whom I had become close with had decided to abandon the trip and leave to travel on their own. The lack of freedom on the trip and the conditions of the train were not suited to them, so I understood why they chose to leave, it was just unfortunate.

 

The train ^^

We began to make our way to a Haveli (a private mansion with grounds) near Ludhiana, where more street dancing commenced in the courtyard. It was boiling, once again, and there were so many of us but you could ignore the discomfort of the heat and humidity as it was so much fun. We ate lunch there and it was amazing. One thing in particular that I cannot fault was the food on that trip. We were always fed until we were full and there were so many choices. It was even ensured that there was no meat, tap water or frozen foods given to us.

 

Dancing in Haveli ^^

After dancing and eating, it was time to visit the industries. We were allowed to choose to only visit one factory if we wanted to visit the town centre of Ludhiana as well. All of the King’s students opted to visit both factories, whereas I was quite intrigued by Ludhiana, so I stayed with a few Edinburgh students as we waited to board a coach to a bike factory before heading to a mall in Ludhiana. What happened next was…interesting. I was sitting with some students from Edinburgh, drinking chai, Adam at a nearby table, when an Indian teacher came up to me, yelling at me in Hindi. I obviously did not understand but it became apparent that she thought that I was a Delhi student who was disobeying my elders. We all desperately (whilst trying not to laugh) tried to explain that I was an international student and that it was okay for me to be staying behind. She did not believe us though and started dragging me back to the coaches. I genuinely had to scream ‘Adam!’ several times for help. It was hilarious seeing Adam meekly go up to this ferocious Indian teacher to explain the misunderstanding.

 

Boarding coaches for factory^^                        Beginning of monsoon time ^^

The factory was very interesting to see. There was a distinct difference between western factories and Indian factories; predominantly regarding health and safety. In this particular bike factory, helmets and goggles were not mandatory; we were allowed to wander about without these precautions, which I know would not have been the case in England. After our factory trip, we visited a mall in Ludhiana which was fun as I got to spend time with the Edinburgh students; getting to know them better. This was a change, as the majority of time had been spent with the Delhi students. Furthermore, the trip had a busy schedule, so it was pleasant to enjoy time relaxing. I am actually really glad that I went on the trip without my friends, as it gave me the opportunity to get to know others and connect with people who I might not normally talk to. This is a useful skill which will benefit me in all aspects of my future life.

 

King’s and Edinburgh bonding time ^^

We were treated to dinner that evening at a hotel venue, where a DJ was playing. The food was incredible, as per, and there was more dancing. I found it really fun and enjoyable to dance with the Delhi students; they were so much more confident and wild with their dancing. It was similar dancing to how we dance in Iran, but in western culture, typical dancing in a club or at a party involves quite subtle and minimal movements. I am grateful for the trip, as I would never have  experienced this side of Indian culture in such close proximity if I had come on holiday to India with friends or family. This idea was reinforced as we waited for our train at Ludhiana station and we exchanged stories and played games with the Delhi students.

 

Dancing, Disco, DJ ^^

Bhangra dancing at the Wagah border!

http://instagram.com/p/d7MCe-wUOZ/

Like a scene out of Slumdog Millionaire; I’ve never had so much fun.

Monday 2nd September: Amritsar AND A BED

I woke up stiff and cold but fairly well rested for a night on a 2nd/3rd class Indian train! As I climbed down from my top bunk, I stared out of the window whilst the stewards brought us our packaged breakfasts. I was astounded to see the amount of rubbish in India, it was in piles and mounds and it all smelled terrible.

We arrived in Amritsar and went straight to our hotel. WHERE THERE WAS A SHOWER. RUNNING WATER. A BED. I had not been this excited for modern conveniences since my expedition in Norway. We did not have time to relax for long though, as we were scheduled downstairs to eat lunch before boarding the coaches to visit the Jaliawala Bagh; a garden which had been put under siege by British General, E.H. Dyer, during the Amritsar Massacre. You could still see the bullet holes in the walls, where he had ordered soldiers to fire, killing thousands of innocent civilians. I felt incredibly awkward taking photos at such a haunting place but learning about this event of history was fascinating. I love history, so I thoroughly enjoyed the visits to places with historic background, as well as cultural. I had been given bindis to wear by the Indian teachers but I could not hide my tourist streak, as I excitedly clambered onto a donkey cart and endured a recklessly scary ride back to the coaches. When in India…

 

Us (King’s) with Delhi University students and Delhi University lecturer ^^

Riding in the donkey-cart ^^

 

Jaliawala Bagh ^^

 

Our next stop was the Wagah border. There is not much point in visiting the border between India and Pakistan unless you arrive in time to see the guard change. We sat, in our numbers, on the steps, waiting in anticipation for the ‘show’ to begin. We figured it was indeed a show, as despite the severly negative relations between India and Pakistan, it was hard to believe the alleged hostility of between the guards of the two nations, as they participated in their ritual. All I can describe the following events as was a mashup of scenes from Slumdog Millionaire. Patriotic Indian music started playing, people ran towards the gates with the Indian flag and the whole crowd united in this wild and wonderful bhangra dance. It was incredible. It was hot, humid and we were all wet from sweating and water being thrown about, but it was a truly amazing experience and one that I will never forget. I absolutely love that in Asian cultures, expressive singing and dancing is widely accepted, compared to in western cultures, where everything is tamer and more conservative (with the exception of stage performers, of course).

 

Sadly, we had to leave. It was disappointing, as we were really bonding with the Delhi students; singing and dancing with them, but we had to make our way to the Swarn Mandir, otherwise known as the Golden Temple. I was really excited about this visit, as I had previously read that this temple attracts more visitors than the Taj Mahal. It had to be amazing. Some girls had forgotten headscarves, so en route to the temple, we stopped by various market stalls. I ended up buying a scarf, despite already owning one. We were lucky to have one of the Indian teachers with us, to aid us with our bargaining skills. The Golden Temple is set in the centre of a lake and shines and shimmers against the water. The courtyard is impressive, but the true experience is queuing up to see the inside; solid gold and host to a prayer ceremony. I was not completely surprised, as similar ongoings occur in the mosques in Iran, but it was great to see a different culture’s way of prayer.

We arrived home so late, but Asian culture is no stranger to eating in the late hours. We ate paneer (cottage cheese in a hot, spicy sauce), vegetable curry and naans and rotis at 1am before crashing out in our BEDS!

Sunday 1st September: All aboard to Kurukshetra!

Waking up at 5am was not my idea of a summer holiday. As I shook away my sleep and turned on the shower, I tried to remind myself of the positives of being on this trip. They were soon washed away though, when all King’s and Edinburgh students waited, bags packed, by the buses at the glorious hour of 6am…and there was no effort to leave Delhi. This was the first time (but not the last by any means) we were encountering the most severe and different culture shock of the trip. Every time we were set a time to be ready by, the western students were there on time, or arriving rushed and panting as we were ten minutes late, only to find that the Indian teachers and students would not arrive for another hour or so. It was extremely infuriating. However, looking back on it, I know that learning this cultural difference will benefit me if I ever encounter my academic, professional or personal life taking place in India or with Indian people.

 

Our greeting/entourage! ^^

We arrived at the train station (finally!) to be greeted by a marching band. It was a surreal experience; the band playing and confetti and chalk being thrown over us as we all walked onto the platform. This trip (for its industrial and cultural learning purposes) was obviously really prestigious in Delhi, as there were video cameras in our faces as we boarded the train.

The train itself was another shock. To give you some idea, it made no resemblance to South West trains in any form and the Bakerloo line tube is like a palace in comparison. It was an eye-opener to see the difference between our transport at home and in India, but nothing matched up to driving past the slums. I was at a window seat, therefore I was so close. It was…wow. You hear about it, you watched Slumdog Millionaire but it still is not fully real to you until you see it first-hand. That was the best thing about this trip; I saw India in its raw and real state. There were good and bad aspects but it was all the truth. It wasn’t covered up by a tourist holiday.

 

Me ‘trapped’ on the train ^^

The train station in Kurukshetra was a more accurate representation than the one in Delhi, which had been cleared for our departure. It was busy, noisy and chaotic. Numerous headcounts and registers were taken as we filed onto our designated coaches-and for good reason. It would have been so easy to have lost someone. The train journey was really incredible though, as we passed by the slums. The Indian students kept telling us not to take photos, as they seemed mildly embarrassed, but it was such an eye-opener for us; to be this close to such poverty, the kind you hear and read about but never really see.

 

 

 

A glimpse at the slums; it was humbling to see the fun the children had playing in the little water they had ^^

Honestly, Kurukshetra was my least favourite stop of the trip. We first visited the Kurukshetra Panorama and Science centre, which was the equivalent of the ‘hands-on’ section of the Science Museum in London. I think the western students found it a little boring, having participated in similar trips at a much younger age. However, it was interesting to observe the Delhi students getting excited over the experimental activities. We then visited the Krishna Museum which included beautiful artifacts and paintings, but was one of the more dull visits of the trip. It was a slow start to the trip and I think more hesitation was added to peoples’ thoughts as we ate our dinner out of cartons and prepared for our first night sleeping aboard the train. It was rickety, old and very different to what we were used to, but I personally slept through the whole night!

 

Panorama & Science Centre ^^

 

Krishna Museum-being ‘blessed’ by Krishna ^^

 

Dinner that evening on the train ^^

Saturday 31st September: New Delhi, the Red Fort and Orientation

Going down to breakfast, the next day, it was as if we were in a hotel. We were served a large selection of breakfast items and it was all cleared away for us. We went to prepare for our second day in Delhi; to see what was in store for us. However, it took our King’s representative, Adam, quite a while to get into our guesthouse. After two hours of him having to prove who he was and fill in several forms, he was allowed to leave his guesthouse and enter ours. I assume this was another cultural difference due to ethnicity and gender. We then had to fill out many forms ourselves, before we finally found ourselves in a large taxi, en route to see the Red Fort.

Seeing the university grounds and meeting some of the lecturers and students had been really nice but this trip was the first chance we had to see New Delhi properly and interact with other Indian citizens. India is busy and bustling, similar to London in that respect, yet it is humid, dusty and the smell of great food consumes the streets.

When we arrived at our destination, we were swarmed by hundreds of citizens who wanted photos with us; people would hand us their babies for photos. It was crazy! As we queued up to buy our tickets, we were also harassed by beggars and there was one lady who stuck stickers of the Indian flag on us and then asked for money. I was used to this, as there are beggars in Iran, but it was a shock for some of the others. You see less beggars in London and most of them sit on the curbside, asking for change, as opposed to coming up to you in the street.

The inside of the Red Fort was really interesting; we learnt about the Mughal Empire, which I found really interesting, having studied it a little during my AS History classes. As we walked around, I felt glad to be in my trousers, as despite women wearing saris revealing their midrift, all Indian citizens covered up the majority of their bodies.

We returned back to our respective guesthouses, before uniting at one (with chaperones, as per) for our orientation regarding the train trip. There were more students from the University of Delhi here and I observed how they were all ridiculously respectful toward their elders, in particular those tutors who corresponded to the same classes. Whilst the students from King’s and Edinburgh objected to some of the rules set out, and these objections were made public, the Delhi students remained silent. I found this interesting and believe it links in to their culture; that an adult’s word is to be the final word and that those younger should adhere to it, regardless.

We got to know the Edinburgh students a bit better at dinner that night, before packing our bergens and suitcases, ready for the long trip that awaited us.